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{"id":637,"date":"2016-04-28T18:15:28","date_gmt":"2016-04-28T18:15:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/jfmac.local\/~jf\/wptest\/?p=637"},"modified":"2016-04-28T18:15:28","modified_gmt":"2016-04-28T18:15:28","slug":"one-more-day-on-the-coast","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/?p=637","title":{"rendered":"Time to leave the Coast"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><h3><a href='..\/index.php?page=day&type=date&key=2016-04-23' id='2016-04-23' title='WHUFU day page'>Saturday (Apr 23)<\/a><\/h3><\/p>\n<p>On this part of the coast there&#8217;s the beach, then a 30&#8242; high natural levee (<em>foredune<\/em> as the sign calls it :), then about 200 yards of low scrub, then miles of impenetrable bay\/cypress\/waxmyrtle thickets and even swamps &#8211; same stuff\u00a0I hiked\u00a0through\u00a0two nights ago at Sutton Creek. My parking lot is in the low scrub zone, and I\u00a0angled myself so that I look out over\u00a0it (and not the RVs and dunebuggies :). The moon was full last night and it was spectacular looking over that expanse of vegetated nothing. Most of the night was cloudy so it was diffuse moonlight rather than surprising glare you get from the actual orb, but it sure was pretty!\u00a0Later on it rained. It&#8217;s gloomy and windy this morning, with the threat of rain any minute.<\/p>\n<p>Finally I tear myself away. A short 12 minute drive across the bridge into Coos Bay and I am back at the <strong>Smiling Dog Cafe<\/strong>, with it&#8217;s free coffee and wifi and good, cheap food. I love this place.<\/p>\n<p>Researching options and over-planning can wear a person out, but sometimes the fruits of that worrying and thinking are pretty cool, and that&#8217;s what&#8217;s happening now.<\/p>\n<p><div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=5704' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1604Eureka\/IMG_1649.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dean Creek Elk Viewing Area, no elk today<\/div><\/div>After my great extra day at the beach I am going to go inland &#8230; but the weather is sketchy region-wide for the next three days &#8211; late spring snowstorms is the headline in the weather apps.\u00a0I am therefore aborting my plan to\u00a0follow the Umpqua into the mountains then drive past\u00a0Crater Lake to drive down\u00a0the 95-395 corridor through Klamath and Lava Beds and all that nothing till Susanville.<\/p>\n<p>New plan will be to head down the much milder I-5 corridor, down to \u00a0McCloud\/Burney and then my usual Susanville route.<\/p>\n<p>But today&#8217;s last bit of research shows\u00a0a lonely BLM icon that I hadn&#8217;t noticed! I had resigned myself to the boring looking but new to me (yes, a seeming contradiction) route out of Coos Bay, but this place means that I have to retrace for the third and sometimes fifth times up through Reedsport and all that hyperactive law enforcement, to <strong>Route 38<\/strong>\u00a0and the very beautiful lower <strong>Umpqua Valley<\/strong>. I have a very low key, pleasant drive. The Umpqua Valley is beautiful. There are no elks at the elk viewing area this afternoon, but the red-winged blackbirds came very close.<\/p>\n<p><div class='whusp-dropdown' id='whusp-1'> &nbsp; <b>Tyee Rogue River Campground<\/b><span class='downicon'><span class='dashicons dashicons-arrow-down-alt2'><\/span><\/span><\/div><div class='whusp-dropdown-content' id='whusp-1-drop'>\n<p>WHUFU page for: <b><a href='..\/index.php?page=spot&type=id&key=306'  >Tyee Rogue River Campground<\/a><\/b><\/p><p>\n<p>Right on the Umpqua, at the very edge of the little hamlet of Oakland OR. It&#039;s small so it could fill up fast, but darn it&#039;s a sweet little spot tucked away in an unlikely part of Oregon.\r<\/p>\n<p>\r<\/p>\n<p>I came here on an August Friday and it was FULL. It&#039;s a perfect place to go tubing on the river, so I&#039;m (sad but) not surprised.<\/p>\n<\/p><p><\/p><b>tonight<\/b>:<p>\n<p>#5 is at the end of the upper loop and could not be more perfect (unless you need to be near the bathroom, which thankfully I don&#039;t anymore :)\r<\/p>\n<p>\r<\/p>\n<p>Right on the Umpqua, at the very edge of the little hamlet of Oakland OR. It&#039;s small so it could fill up fast, but darn it&#039;s a sweet little spot tucked away in an unlikely part of Oregon.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div><div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=5708' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1604Eureka\/IMG_1658.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">my perfect spot at Tyee Campground<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>Man this place is nice!\u00a0Reminds me of <a href='..\/index.php?page=spot&type=id&key=92'  >Susan Creek<\/a> the BLM campground I was going to stay in before the weather change. By far the most deluxe BLM campgrounds I&#8217;ve ever been in anywhere, and they&#8217;re both in the same area and have the same deal where local Boy Scouts or Junior Achievers of some sort put in tons of volunteer effort to make it really nice. \u00a0Love it! \u00a0Has a good solid WPA, civic pride feel to it.<\/p>\n<p>Sadly, it also has it&#8217;s own set of creepy hillbillies, who have been here long enough\u00a0that they\u00a0leave their toiletries &#8211; toothpaste, soap, shampoo &#8211; at the campground water spigot, Never seen that before&#8230;. \u00a0I can&#8217;t wait for the economy to get better so all these people have a home.<\/p>\n<p>I took what feels right now like a lot of cool-ish arty videos and panoramas. I guess I took good regular photos also, but today&#8217;s insight is that for what I like to convey &#8211; <em>the feeling of being there<\/em>\u00a0&#8211; those two modes are very useful additions. woo!.<\/p>\n<p>Around sunset, the rain drove me inside the van, working with the door open sitting on my cooler. Then it eventually forced me to close the door. Now I&#8217;m cozy inside, happy with the day I had, listening to big fat raindrops that have collected in the high branches of the Douglas firs, fall and splang against the roof of the van.<\/p>\n<h3><a href='..\/index.php?page=day&type=date&key=2016-04-24' id='2016-04-24' title='WHUFU day page'>Sunday<\/a><\/h3>\n<p>The splanging continued all night and morning. If I were parked out in the open, it would have been a quiet mist or drizzle, but like I say, the trees collect it into\u00a0big, splanging units.<\/p>\n<p>Now, 10:30, it&#8217;s raining hard, and for a while even hailing! This make me glad to\u00a0be having crappy weather safely\u00a0on the west side of I-5, rather that having it in\u00a0the much wilder mountains east of there.<\/p>\n<p>I want to see the Warriors game at 12:30 today. The <strong>Tap Rock <\/strong>in<strong> Grant&#8217;s Pass<\/strong> would be the perfect place, good food, good wifi, and lots of TVs, but it&#8217;s a couple of hours away. Yelp didn&#8217;t show me anywhere remotely as promising between here and there, so that&#8217;s where I go. It worked out really well\u00a0&#8230; until a couple of locals came in and started agitating for hockey. Not on any of the other four TVs, but on my TV. Annoying, it got me fully into &#8220;get off my lawn&#8221; mode for a few minutes (which I don&#8217;t really like), but I was leaving anyway at that point, so I just moved on and tried to put the bad vibes behind me. I will also restrain myself from any generalizations about hockey fans. :)<\/p>\n<p>I followed <strong>OR 99<\/strong> along the <strong>Rogue<\/strong> until it forced me back onto I-5. Soon I was needing to get rid of the beer and coffee I soaked up at the Tap Rock. My angels were guiding me! I pulled off at the next rest stop, which was &#8230;.<\/p>\n<p><div class='whusp-dropdown' id='whusp-2'> &nbsp; <b>Valley of the Rogue<\/b><span class='downicon'><span class='dashicons dashicons-arrow-down-alt2'><\/span><\/span><\/div><div class='whusp-dropdown-content' id='whusp-2-drop'>\n<p>WHUFU page for: <b><a href='..\/index.php?page=spot&type=id&key=264'  >Valley of the Rogue<\/a><\/b><\/p><p>\n<p>between I-5 and the Rogue River, a very pleasant, user-friendly place. The only loops open happen to all have full hookups, but the nice folks agree that if you don&#039;t use &#039;em you don&#039;t pay for &#039;em, so it&#039;s a $15 tent site!\r<\/p>\n<p>\r<\/p>\n<p>Great hike along the river, followed by my first shower since the hot springs, so I am feeling pretty good!<\/p>\n<\/p><p><\/p><b>tonight<\/b>:<p>\n<p>Summer rates, but also, all the loops are open, so I am in an actual tent site. Forbidding sign says &quot;One night only.&quot;  Works for me!  Still pretty and green and grassy, and I-5 is still 200 yards away.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div><\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;ve stayed here before! I did a drive-by on the registration kiosk to see what the rate is nowadays &#8211; $19. I can live with that! So, just like that, I bailed out on my 2.5 hour\u00a0drive to McCloud. Pay my $19 and stop now, at a place I know is pleasant. Slowly I&#8217;m learning how to chill out. Coolish and windy and spits rain every now and then. I think I&#8217;ll go for a walk.<\/p>\n<p>It was a good walk! \u00a09,000 steps my app tells me! The moon does not rise till 10 pm or so, so I&#8217;m glad I&#8217;m walking in the wide open spaces.<\/p>\n<p>I washed away the exertion with\u00a0an excellent State of Oregon shower when I returned. This one had actual knobs rather than the buttons on timers, so it was a deluxe experience!<\/p>\n<h3><a href='..\/index.php?page=day&type=date&key=2016-04-25' id='2016-04-25' title='WHUFU day page'>Monday<\/a><\/h3>\n<p>I-5 sounds pretty much the same 24-7. Sunday afternoon, middle of the night, Monday morning &#8211; jut an amazing, never-ending stream of gas-burning engines\u00a0on wheels. Also, it doesn&#8217;t feel like a Monday to me, I&#8217;m on vacation! \u00a0It\u00a0was pretty\u00a0cold last night, the heat came on a lot. It&#8217;s probably even\u00a0colder in the mountains, where I didn&#8217;t go.<\/p>\n<p>On my way out of the campground I hopped over to the next site to top off my water tank from the handy threaded spigot I noticed there. Immediately I got hassled by some hard-ass dude who seemed think God had willed him that spot, even though I was in it and he wasn&#8217;t. I kind of deferred because I thought he might be with the park. Pretty sure he wasn&#8217;t, so basically he rolled me by being a bigger asshole, and I am left with some resentment about not standing up for myself. \u00a0No big deal, but part of a well-run life for\u00a0me is not spending time getting bullied by belligerent assholes, so two in less than 24 hours\u00a0is kind of a warning bell for me. Three assholes would make it a trend, and we don&#8217;t want that trend.<\/p>\n<p>Soon I was back to my usual self, only occasionally thinking about last night&#8217;s asshole or\u00a0today&#8217;s asshole. Because I stopped early last night, I have a very easy drive today. I celebrate by following OR 99 to its terminus\u00a0at the south end of Ashland. I feel I know this part of Oregon a little better now. 99\u00a0takes you right through downtown <strong>Medford<\/strong>. I got it in my head that I wanted the experience of real town&#8217;s coffee house rather than a swishy, artsy student coffeehouse in <strong>Ashland<\/strong>. Probably a mistake. The first place I treid on downtown Medford had the lovely name <strong>Limestone Coffee<\/strong>.\u00a0It was so pretentious that I just thanked the lady and moved on.<\/p>\n<p>The second spot, <strong>Downtown Coffee<\/strong> was as funky as you could ask for. You walk in the door and all there is is a landing for a flight of stairs. Business is done and coffee is dispensed by a very tall hippie dude in the alcove\u00a0under the stairs, who seems in constant danger of banging the back of his head on the slanted underneath of the stairwell. Then you take your cup of coffee and walk up a flight of stairs where there are three tables and seven chairs, and that&#8217;s it! The coffee was good and cheap and so was the wifi, so it was fine, but &#8230; funky. I&#8217;ll bet it&#8217;s really hot and stuffy in the summer.<\/p>\n<p>On the other hand, Ashland is awfully\u00a0pricey. I got my food for the day at a place called <strong>Sammich<\/strong>, where the sandos are &gt; $12 each. The dude told me I could sub potato salad for chips on each, but did NOT tell me he was charging $2 extra each. So a hot sando for here and a cold sando for later was a jaw-dropping $33\u00a0! To the point of the last paragraph, there was also a nice looking coffee place in the same set of buildings &#8230; if only I&#8217;d known\u00a0I could&#8217;ve done one stop shopping and avoided searching for\u00a0parking in downtown Medford and carrying my coffee up a flight of stairs.<\/p>\n<p>South of Ashland, 99 finally runs out and funnels you back onto\u00a0the interstate, for a high speed drive over <strong>Siskiyou Summit<\/strong>\u00a0and down into <strong>California<\/strong>\u00a0for the next 70 miles or so. Actually not true &#8211; a few miles into California\u00a0I exited\u00a0and followed <strong>CA 296<\/strong>. It is a spectacular drive that starts along the <strong>Klamath River<\/strong>, then follows\u00a0the Shasta\u00a0River from it&#8217;s confluence with the Klamath, then follows\u00a0Yreka Creek to\u00a0<strong>Yreka<\/strong>. It\u00a0was quite a pleasant drive, much better than waltzing with semis on the interstate for those miles. Too bad there&#8217;s no campgrounds down there.<\/p>\n<p><div class='whusp-dropdown' id='whusp-3'> &nbsp; <b>Fowler&#039;s Camp Campground<\/b><span class='downicon'><span class='dashicons dashicons-arrow-down-alt2'><\/span><\/span><\/div><div class='whusp-dropdown-content' id='whusp-3-drop'>\n<p>WHUFU page for: <b><a href='..\/index.php?page=spot&type=id&key=307'  >Fowler&#039;s Camp Campground<\/a><\/b><\/p><p>\n<p>On the McCloud River, within hiking distance of the three waterfalls. Apparently heavily used in the swimming months, but pleasantly uncrowded tonight. \r<\/p>\n<p>\r<\/p>\n<p>The hike to Lower Falls is less than a mile and very scenic.\r<\/p>\n<p>Hike to Middle\/Upper Falls is a little more than a mile. You can walk the paved road back to make it a loop if you wish.<\/p>\n<\/p><p><\/p><b>tonight<\/b>:<p>\n<p>Site 24 is great. It&#039;s slightly annoying that the waterfall trail runs between the campsites and the river, so people occasionally walk between me and my excellent view, but that&#039;s a small quibble. \r<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<\/p><\/div><div class=\"wp-caption alignright picpor whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=5750' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1604Eureka\/IMG_1733.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">there it is!  Middle Falls<\/div><\/div>I am very happy to be settled in at the redundantly named\u00a0<strong>Fowler&#8217;s Camp Campground<\/strong>, hereafter called simply\u00a0Fowler&#8217;s Camp by me.<\/p>\n<p>Another great hike, made it all the way to the <strong>Middle\u00a0Falls<\/strong> viewing platform. Followed my favorite script by walking back on the road, I was able to not use the\u00a0flashlight, and as a bonus, had\u00a0great views of Mt Shasta in the waning light. \u00a0Towards the end I wasn&#8217;t sure I was on the right road, so I got the bright idea to is &#8220;Find My iPhone&#8221; to find my laptop or iPad, allowing my to effectively home in on the van. Brilliant idea :), but it failed to find either &#8230; because they have no connectivity other than internet? \u00a0Oh well, research topic.<\/p>\n<p><h3><a href='..\/index.php?page=day&type=date&key=2016-04-26' id='2016-04-26' title='WHUFU day page'>Tuesday<\/a><\/h3><div class=\"wp-caption alignleft piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=5758' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1604Eureka\/IMG_1759.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upper Falls out of the basalt columns<\/div><\/div><div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=5762' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1604Eureka\/IMG_1768.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lower Falls<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>Got down to 28\u00b0 last night, still pretty chilly this morning. The mountains in Oregon yesterday had a fresh dusting of snow, again confirming my decision to stay in milder climes.<\/p>\n<p>Long day. Maps told me it would be 3.5 hours to get home, and about the same to get to\u00a0Sierra Hot Springs. That&#8217;s more driving than I like to do, but those are my choices. I want to be soaking in the hot pool tonight.<\/p>\n<p>I dawdled in bed, dawdled around the campground, visiting the other two Falls I missed last night. For completeness I\u00a0have included a picture of each\u00a0falls above. Not great pictures, but there they are.<\/p>\n<p>Every time I&#8217;m on this road I find myself making the ten-mile\u00a0detour to\u00a0<strong>Burney<\/strong>\u00a0for breakfast and wifi. Breakfast at the <strong>Blackberry Patch<\/strong>(?) is nothing special, but life isn&#8217;t quite right if I don&#8217;t get my\u00a0daily dose of wifi so I end up doing it.<\/p>\n<p>My\u00a0<strong>Sierra Hot Springs<\/strong> calculation is becoming untenable. Driving straight there from here\u00a0would get me there at 7:30-8. I pulled off at the shortcut turnoff (which I am not sure is even paved all the way) and meditated on it. Made the\u00a0decision to punt and go home. So here I am writing this in my comfy chair, frosted mug at my side, stupid TV blaring at me, catching up on the Warriors and politics, instead in\u00a0the quiet and cold of the van in Sierraville. \u00a0I&#8217;m ok with this result.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>On this part of the coast there&#8217;s the beach, then a 30&#8242; high natural levee (foredune as the sign calls it :), then about 200 yards of low scrub, then miles of impenetrable bay\/cypress\/waxmyrtle thickets and even swamps &#8211; same &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/?p=637\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[26],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-637","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-april-2016-baby-and-oregon"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/637","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=637"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/637\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=637"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=637"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=637"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}