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{"id":268,"date":"2012-08-23T17:24:00","date_gmt":"2012-08-23T17:24:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/jfmac.local\/~jf\/wordpress\/?p=268"},"modified":"2018-01-04T06:30:24","modified_gmt":"2018-01-04T06:30:24","slug":"finally-the-coast","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/?p=268","title":{"rendered":"Finally, the coast!"},"content":{"rendered":"<h3><a href='..\/index.php?page=day&type=date&key=2012-08-21' id='2012-08-21' title='WHUFU day page'>Tuesday (Aug 21)<\/a><\/h3>\n<p>So&#8230; this campground &#8211; <strong>Castle Rock<\/strong> &#8211; is a tents-only campground.\u00a0 It comprises a parking lot, a pit toilet and a big grassy field, and that&#8217;s it.\u00a0 A rollicking family picnic is going on around a cluster of tents on the far side of the field &#8211; not scary or creepy I am relieved to say.\u00a0 A fellow even comes over and offers to move a car, but there is a nice quiet corner of the parking lot where I angle the van to face the bushes. I park it and decompress after a long day whose last three hours were tiring and stressful.<\/p>\n<h3><a href='..\/index.php?page=day&type=date&key=2012-08-22' id='2012-08-22' title='WHUFU day page'>Wednesday<\/a><\/h3>\n<p>I get up and leave this not very exciting place and head for the coast.\u00a0 This is one of those stretches where the coast highway is actually quite far from the coast.\u00a0 <strong>Pacific City<\/strong> is due west of here 7-8 miles.\u00a0 There is no bridge over the inlet at Pacific, so it stays pretty quiet with no through traffic.\u00a0 I remember liking it the one time I visited, don&#8217;t remember anything special enough to go back this time.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Lincoln City<\/strong> &#8211; traffic always sucks bad here.\u00a0 It&#8217;s the closest beach town to Portland, so it&#8217;s the last (or first) stop before heading inland for escapees from the big city. Probably because of that it has a over-developed city beach feel to it.\u00a0 As I drive by <strong>Devil&#8217;s Lake CG<\/strong> I think fondly of it from last time. Yelp identifies a breakfast place with wifi, so I do that then proceed south.<\/p>\n<p>Next up is <strong>Depoe Bay<\/strong>, one of my favorite little towns along here.\u00a0 They have diagonal parking along the beach wall, and I snag a good spot with the idea of walking around a little.\u00a0 However I find myself laying down in the back of the van and taking a nap instead.\u00a0 I feel like I slept well, but I guess yesterday did me in.\u00a0 It was very pleasant!<\/p>\n<p>Next stop <strong>Newport<\/strong>.\u00a0 The Edgefield bartender told me to go to <strong>Newport Aquarium<\/strong>. I decided be a tourist, loosen up and spend the $16 and just do it!\u00a0 I spend 3.5 hours there and had an excellent time!\u00a0 The aviary, with <em>Tufted Puffins<\/em> in full sexual display was very cool, as were the three walk-through fish tanks, with the schools of mackerel, salmon, etc circling around you, over you, and even under you.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m outta there 5:30-ish, so time to pick up dinner and find a campsite.\u00a0 Things do fill up here in August.\u00a0 Yelp tells me there is a nice sounding deli in the little town of <strong>Waldport<\/strong>.\u00a0 I miss it, risk life and limb to turn around and go back for it, and then find that their idea of a deli is &#8220;hot dogs, corndogs and chilidogs&#8221; aarggh!<em>\u00a0 #deliFAIL<\/em>. \u00a0 Thankfully Waldport also has a Subway where I got my ole dependable foot-long BMT.\u00a0 That so-called deli will be feeling my wrath on Yelp!<\/p>\n<p><div class='whusp-dropdown' id='whusp-1'> &nbsp; <b>Tillicum Beach Campground<\/b><span class='downicon'><span class='dashicons dashicons-arrow-down-alt2'><\/span><\/span><\/div><div class='whusp-dropdown-content' id='whusp-1-drop'>\n<p>WHUFU page for: <b><a href='..\/index.php?page=spot&type=id&key=175'  >Tillicum Beach Campground<\/a><\/b><\/p><p>\n<p>perfect spot to camp for the beach.  On a small bluff, so you&#039;re camping off the sand in the pines, but the beach is only about 30 steps down the hill. I will come back here.\r<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<\/p><p><\/p><b>tonight<\/b>:<p>\n<p>perfect spot to camp for the beach.  On a small bluff, so you&#039;re camping off the sand in the pines, but the beach is only about 30 steps down the hill. I will come back here.\r<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<\/p><\/div><div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=2217' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1208Oregon\/IMG_6455.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">sunset at Tillicum Beach<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>The next 60 miles or so are particularly beloved by me because it&#8217;s mostly Federal land, with National Forest campgrounds rather than State Parks, a difference of $10-20\/night in camping cost with my federal Senior Pass.\u00a0 I&#8217;ve been planning all day to end up at the <strong>Cape Perpetua<\/strong> campground, but on the way I pass <strong>Tillicum Beach Campground<\/strong>. It does not say it&#8217;s full, so I make a really good decision to go for actual beach camping rather than lovely forest camping 1\/2 mile from the beach.\u00a0 Another u-turn, back to Tillicum, and what a great idea this was!\u00a0 The campground is on a small bluff, so you&#8217;re camping in relatively sand-free comfort in the trees and shrubs, but the actual beach 30 stairs away.\u00a0 I snagged a nice spot on the far side of the loop, where I hung out and watched the sun set through the trees, then a lovely beach walk, complete with quarter-moon set.<\/p>\n<h3><a href='..\/index.php?page=day&type=date&key=2012-08-23' id='2012-08-23' title='WHUFU day page'>Thursday<\/a><\/h3>\n<p><div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=2222' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1208Oregon\/IMG_6463.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">sunset at Tillicum Beach<\/div><\/div>Laying here in the pine trees with the sound of the surf in one direction (and the sounds of US 101 in the other).\u00a0 Really nice place.\u00a0 Leave around noonish for coffee at the annoying place in <strong>Yachats<\/strong>.\u00a0 I carried on about this place last time.\u00a0 It&#8217;s actually a very nice place, but I never seem to quite get it right here.\u00a0 This time a crew of 5 picky old ladies walked in right before me, adding another 6 minutes to an ordering line that was literally 13 people long when I joined it.\u00a0 After I finally got settled in there was no line at all most of the time.\u00a0 That&#8217;s the kind of karma I have with the <strong>Green Bean<\/strong>.\u00a0 The self-satisfied insularity of the well-to-do locals brings up my worst memories of Bolinas\/West Marin smugness.\u00a0 For all that, the Green Bean is a pretty darned good coffee house, and considering the lack of any place else remotely cool for 20 miles in either direction I will probably be back again.<\/p>\n<p><div class=\"wp-caption alignleft piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=2224' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1208Oregon\/IMG_6467.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">south from Cape Perpetua<\/div><\/div><div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=2235' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1208Oregon\/IMG_6481.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cape Perpetua rocks<\/div><\/div><br \/>\n<strong>Cape Perpetua<\/strong> &#8211; a mere 3 miles south of Yachats.\u00a0 I drive to the lookout at the top.\u00a0 I forget again that they charge a day use fee to park there so I just look at the stunning views both north and south for a minute and head back down.\u00a0 Park on the ocean side and clamber around the rocks for an hour or so.<\/p>\n<p>I shopped at the <strong>Florence<\/strong> Safeway, but I did not take time to enjoy the downtown as I always have before.\u00a0 I wanted to get on and nail down a place for the evening.<\/p>\n<p><div class='whusp-dropdown' id='whusp-2'> &nbsp; <b>Waxmyrtle Campground<\/b><span class='downicon'><span class='dashicons dashicons-arrow-down-alt2'><\/span><\/span><\/div><div class='whusp-dropdown-content' id='whusp-2-drop'>\n<p>WHUFU page for: <b><a href='..\/index.php?page=spot&type=id&key=176'  >Waxmyrtle Campground<\/a><\/b><\/p><p>\n<p>very restful and quiet, in the piney woods near the dunes. Actually, now I can hear the off-road vehicles in the distance, still restful though.  The walk along the river bluff is very nice.<\/p>\n<\/p><p><\/p><b>tonight<\/b>:<p>\n<p>very restful and quiet, in the piney woods near the dunes. Actually, now I can hear the off-road vehicles in the distance, still restful though.  The walk along the river bluff is very nice.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div><div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=2238' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1208Oregon\/IMG_6486.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">Waxmyrtle Campground<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p><strong>Waxmyrtle Campground<\/strong> &#8211; South of Florence is the <strong>Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area<\/strong>.\u00a0 I have chosen to check out the <strong>Siltcoos Recreation Area<\/strong>.\u00a0 The big draw here is OHV, <em>Off Highway Vehicles<\/em>.\u00a0 Not my thing, but the area works for me nonetheless!\u00a0 OHV-ing is limited to the north side of the road.\u00a0 There&#8217;s a campground for those folks, then there&#8217;s a couple of quieter campgrounds &#8211; one surrounded by a lagoon (called <strong>Lagoon<\/strong>!), one south of the road called Waxmyrtle.\u00a0 I should also note that there&#8217;s a large chunk of riverside dunes closed to the public for the <em>Snow Plover mating season<\/em>.\u00a0 So even though you can hear all kinds of motorized mayhem going on a mile or two north, it&#8217;s pristine and beautiful and locally very quiet down here. Come to think of it, sand is probably a great sound absorber, especially compared to say, Nevada hardpan.\u00a0 So they let the engine-lovers tear up one part of the dunes area. They completely close off another for the tree-huggers. Then they leave the rest for normal hiking and camping.\u00a0 A nice compromise!\u00a0 And really, what better place to OHV than sand dunes?\u00a0 Unlike my poor Nevada desert, which will remember the damage of a single dune-buggy for decades, the sand dunes will have forgotten it tomorrow!<\/p>\n<p>First thing, I put the bike together then wear myself out simply by riding a coupla miles to the end of the road.\u00a0 I discovered that my tires are flat-ish, so my excuse for being such a wimp is that I had a lot more drag with my tires than usual.\u00a0 Then I walked the <strong>Lagoon Trail<\/strong>.\u00a0 Some excellent swallows on the first part (Barn Swallows?\u00a0 Purple Martins?), but pretty boring after that.\u00a0 A nice info-sign about invasive species, the Nutria and some kind of Asian grass that is choking out the native grasses &#8211; I hate invasive species.\u00a0 Then I embarked on the <strong>Waxmyrtle Trail<\/strong>.\u00a0 It goes all the way to the beach.\u00a0 I ran out of daylight so I did not make it to the ocean, but still enjoyed a spectacular sunset where the trail runs along a ridge over the <strong>Siltcoos River<\/strong>.\u00a0 The river bend, then the Plover-safe unhiked and un-driven primitive dunes area, then the mouth of the river into the ocean &#8230; oh yeah, with the almost quarter moon over to the left. awesome!<\/p>\n<p>I liked that moon thing so much that I went back up there around 11, for some of that moonlight hiking I love so much and to admire the moon over the river, sort of where the sun was a few hours ago.<\/p>\n<h3><a href='..\/index.php?page=day&type=date&key=2012-08-24' id='2012-08-24' title='WHUFU day page'>Friday<\/a><\/h3>\n<p>First town of the day is <strong>Reedsport<\/strong>.\u00a0 I managed to make a drama out of finding breakfast &#8211; I was determined to get wifi, so I was the annoying guy standing like a dork in the entryway of a couple of restaurants seeing if I really got wifi bars &#8211; both were FAILS.\u00a0 I eventually ended up in the natural foods store, where they made breakfast sandwiches, brewed great coffee and had some kind of healthy cake that tasted good, oh and good wifi.\u00a0 It was all so simple once I found the right answer!<\/p>\n<p><div class='whusp-dropdown' id='whusp-3'> &nbsp; <b>Edson Creek Campground<\/b><span class='downicon'><span class='dashicons dashicons-arrow-down-alt2'><\/span><\/span><\/div><div class='whusp-dropdown-content' id='whusp-3-drop'>\n<p>WHUFU page for: <b><a href='..\/index.php?page=spot&type=id&key=177'  >Edson Creek Campground<\/a><\/b><\/p><p>\n<p>5 miles east of US 101, great find when the beach campgrounds are full on Saturday night.<\/p>\n<\/p><p><\/p><b>tonight<\/b>:<p>\n<p>The place is basically very quiet, but tonight there&#039;s a couple of annoying boys next door, so I&#039;m calling it noisy tonight.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div><div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=2243' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1208Oregon\/IMG_6492.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">Edson Creek Campground<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>Campgrounds are going to fill up early tonight.\u00a0 Even though I know that I need to manage my day with this in mind, I FAIL at it.\u00a0 At 3-ish I drive around <strong>Eel Campground<\/strong>, at the southern end of the Federal campgrounds.\u00a0 It&#8217;s very pretty, and still plenty of spots available.\u00a0 I should have just stayed there.\u00a0 An hour or so down the road <strong>Bullards Beach<\/strong> was FULL.\u00a0 It took longer than I thought to get to my desired destination at Cape Blanco, and at 6-ish PM, it too was FULL.\u00a0 My handy camping app showed a BLM campground 5 miles inland, so I went for that.\u00a0 It was just fine but certainly not special.\u00a0 It was the difference between having the main attraction being a swimming hole in a sleepy little river and having rocky reefs, sandy beaches, awesome sunset, oh yeah, and a shower!\u00a0 I had a pleasant enough evening, but it was an evening I could&#8217;ve had anywhere in northern Cali or Oregon &#8211; it ain&#8217;t no Pacific coast!<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>So&#8230; this campground &#8211; Castle Rock &#8211; is a tents-only campground.\u00a0 It comprises a parking lot, a pit toilet and a big grassy field, and that&#8217;s it.\u00a0 A rollicking family picnic is going on around a cluster of tents on &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/?p=268\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[20],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-268","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-august-2012-too-darned-hot"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/268","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=268"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/268\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=268"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=268"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=268"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}