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{"id":683,"date":"2016-08-20T15:07:48","date_gmt":"2016-08-20T15:07:48","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/jfmac.local\/~jf\/wptest\/?p=683"},"modified":"2016-08-20T15:07:48","modified_gmt":"2016-08-20T15:07:48","slug":"the-rockies","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/?p=683","title":{"rendered":"The Rockies are busy in the summer"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><h3><a href='..\/index.php?page=day&type=date&key=2016-08-17' id='2016-08-17' title='WHUFU day page'>Wednesday (Aug 17)<\/a><\/h3><div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6656' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_2751.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">morning at Ute Campground<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>Both cars are gone when I get going at 9 am. The place seems more pleasant this morning. I think Pagosa Springs frazzles me.<\/p>\n<p>First big town is <strong>Bayfield<\/strong>. I check Yelp and decide to eat here rather than pressing on to hectic Durango. Real nice little place downtown &#8211; a Cuban sando and lots of coffee and wifi and I&#8217;m ready to take on the tourist crossroads at <strong>Durango<\/strong>!<\/p>\n<p>Among the things I did with my\u00a0wifi at brunch was to research a change of plans for the next two nights. I had planned to head north from Durango on the incredibly beautiful 551 to Montrose from which I would cut east and around to get to Aspen by Sunday afternoon. See further down for that.<\/p>\n<p>But 551 has pretty limited federal campgrounds, and they\u00a0are evidently very heavily used. I am not a fan of arriving to the drama of a fully occupied campground. I had the brainstorm that <strong>Mesa Verde National Park<\/strong> is pretty close to Durango, so instead of turning north I keep\u00a0heading west on US 64 to <strong>Mancos<\/strong> and then to the park:<\/p>\n<p><div class='whusp-dropdown' id='whusp-1'> &nbsp; <b>Morefield Campground<\/b><span class='downicon'><span class='dashicons dashicons-arrow-down-alt2'><\/span><\/span><\/div><div class='whusp-dropdown-content' id='whusp-1-drop'>\n<p>WHUFU page for: <b><a href='..\/index.php?page=spot&type=id&key=205'  >Morefield Campground<\/a><\/b><\/p><p>\n<p>National park campgrounds with check in are the worst.  The campground is by definition huge, or else they wouldn&#039;t pay a staff to check you in.  \r<\/p>\n<p>It takes forever because they have to explain the world to each and every guest and it creates a high stress level that is the opposite of what you&#039;re there for.  \r<\/p>\n<p>\r<\/p>\n<p>However ... once that&#039;s over, it&#039;s a nice campground! There three different hikes to take from the valley where the campground is back up to the mesa. There are free showers, wifi and food at the check-in place, which is pretty far from the campsites.<\/p>\n<\/p><p><\/p><b>tonight<\/b>:<p>\n<p>Got here earlier, 3-ish, so there was no line at check-in.  I still managed to make the site picking process kind of stressful, but it worked out very well. In theory every bathroom has a router so the whole campground has wifi. Truth is it&#039;s pretty spotty and the only place with good wifi is the check-in area. \r<\/p>\n<p>\r<\/p>\n<p>Knife&#039;s Edge Trail is just a wonderful experience at sunset\/moonrise.\r<\/p>\n<p>\r<\/p>\n<p>They close the showers from noon to 2.  Messes up my plans :&lt;<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div><div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6661' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_2765.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">my carefully chosen spot at Mesa Verde<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>After much driving around I pick a site clip my &#8220;Occupied&#8221; card to the post and drive back up the hill to report. By now there&#8217;s a little line. I patiently wait and report my spot and &#8230; they don&#8217;t care! Turns out you don&#8217;t have to tell them, I didn&#8217;t need to drive back up the hill. This is the only large campground\u00a0I&#8217;ve encountered where this is the procedure, but\u00a0for the non-reservable sites, makes a lot of sense. State parks typically have the fault of being over-bureaucratic, the management company here has figured it out!<\/p>\n<p>Anyway, no worries, I have business\u00a0up here on top of the hill anyway. Take a shower! Finally unburden myself of the almost three weeks of beer bottles I have held on to because the midwest apparently believes glass recycling is a liberal plot. There&#8217;s only a little hole for the glass so you have to put them in one-by one &#8230; 27 beer bottles! \u00a0The space for a twelve-pack and three six-packs of empty bottles has now been freed up! \u00a0<em>19\u00a0days \/ 27 bottles = 1.42 van beers per day<\/em>. \u00a0I try to keep it to one an evening, but it was so fucking hot and miserable most nights of that period that after the smallest bit of exercise I treated myself to another.<\/p>\n<p>Soak up some quality wifi, then back down the hill to my site.<\/p>\n<p>Now that I understand the system I allow myself to have second thoughts about my site choice. And I change sites yet one more time. I back the van up the one way road in a lawless fashion to the site immediately above me &#8211; no shade, but much roomier and better view.<\/p>\n<p><div class=\"wp-caption alignleft picpor whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6666' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_2776.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">Knife Edge Trail<\/div><\/div><div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6682' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_2805.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">my Knife Edge Trail hike. My campsite is at the crossbar of the &quot;f&quot; in Morefield<\/div><\/div>Because of the fullish moon I still have\u00a0enough time to to take the epic hike I enjoyed so much last time &#8211; the Knife Edge Trail. It heads up out of the southwest corner of the campground and follows a ledge about 3\/4 the way up the sheer face of Mesa Verde out to a great sunset spot. I did it pretty late, so that the last other people were leaving the sunset spot about when I arrived. I tried a different route walking home, which was adventurous, since it&#8217;s clouded up and thus pretty dark. I walked up a different road to the amphitheater &#8211; where there was a nature talk going on &#8211; the history of the sprawling but decrepit Morefield Campgroind we are in. Then on through the amphitheater to the exit on the far side, which delivered me to 40 feet away from my campsite, just as I&#8217;d hoped! I&#8217;ve had a successful adventure, now time to eat and maybe even party a bit!<div class=\"wp-caption alignright picpor whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6672' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_2787.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">moon at Mesa Verde<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>Every now and then I will buy a slightly extravagant bottle of wine &#8211; for me that means &gt; $10. I had one such in the pantry that I brought with me when I left. I would think about it as I drove across the sweltering middle, heating up to the 100&#8217;s in the day and down to the 70&#8217;s at night, and I resolved to finally open it as a\u00a0celebration when I got to the mountains and cool evenings. Well, tonight is that night!<\/p>\n<p>Instead of just gnawing on my usual tired sandwich I crack the wine and bust out my salami and bread and have a little party. The wine weathered its long hot summer pretty well! It still has a noticeable bouquet! \u00a0There is no wind and the temperature is perfect and it&#8217;s almost full moon, so I had a simply excellent moonlight\u00a0dinner!<\/p>\n<p><h3><a href='..\/index.php?page=day&type=date&key=2016-08-18' id='2016-08-18' title='WHUFU day page'>Thursday<\/a><\/h3><div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6674' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_2790.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">I carefully wedged the van into the shade, then it was cloudy this morning!<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>Yep, still perfect. No wind, 71\u00b0, nice overcast to mute what would be a harsh sun. The overcast\u00a0is kind of a joke on me. I went to a lot of trouble in my campsite selection and van orientation to find a spot with some trace of morning shade, and turns out it doesn&#8217;t matter!<\/p>\n<p>Enjoy my excellent spot at the top of the hill for a while, then head back up to Headquarters for an exit shower to wash off last night&#8217;s five mile hike. Curses!! The showers are closed from noon to 2:30 every day. Actually that&#8217;s not quite accurate &#8211; they are unusable because they are entirely open, getting a much needed daily airing out.<div class=\"wp-caption alignleft piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6679' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_2801.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">residents from olden times<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>Whatever, no morning shower for me today. Even so I end hanging out\u00a0almost till 2pm doing my daily wifi exercises. Then a fun hour at the Visitors Center meant I was hitting the fancy downtown bistro in Cortez\u00a0at about 3. \u00a0Because I had already done my wifi biz I was able to bring\u00a0my old-school kit (book, puzzles) rather than my new-school kit (old phone, new phone, laptop). As a matter of style I much prefer\u00a0the old-school kit, but as a matter of getting my daily shit done new-school is required all too frequently&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>I passed through Cortez on a <a href='..\/index.php?page=stops&type=id&key=25'  >previous trip<\/a>, doing the first part of today&#8217;s journey in reverse. Glad I read that account, it primed me for some of the scenic features. I am surprised about how much I remember about Dolores and Cortez when I drive through them.<\/p>\n<p><div class='whusp-dropdown' id='whusp-2'> &nbsp; <b>Cayton Campground<\/b><span class='downicon'><span class='dashicons dashicons-arrow-down-alt2'><\/span><\/span><\/div><div class='whusp-dropdown-content' id='whusp-2-drop'>\n<p>WHUFU page for: <b><a href='..\/index.php?page=spot&type=id&key=345'  >Cayton Campground<\/a><\/b><\/p><p>\n<p>Elevation 9,500.  Weather is very gloomy, so I&#039;m not seeing it at it&#039;s best.\r<\/p>\n<p>\r<\/p>\n<p>Site 22 is very nice, level, large, with an excellent vista looking over the wide, green valley with the busy highway on the other side.\r<\/p>\n<p>\r<\/p>\n<p>The camp host says she saw moose tracks at the next campsite!<\/p>\n<\/p><p><\/p><b>tonight<\/b>:<p>\n<p>Elevation 9,500.  Weather is very gloomy, so I&#039;m not seeing it at it&#039;s best.\r<\/p>\n<p>\r<\/p>\n<p>Site 22 is very nice, level, large, with an excellent vista looking over the wide, green valley with the busy highway on the other side.\r<\/p>\n<p>\r<\/p>\n<p>The camp host says she saw moose tracks at the next campsite!<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div><div class=\"wp-caption alignleft piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6683' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_2806.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cayton Campground<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>Got here 5-ish, and many sites are taken. I lucked out on a real nice one that&#8217;s reserved for the weekend, but this is Thursday, so I&#8217;m good! \u00a0Colorado is a pain in the ass. Grumpy people with an aggressive big dog are at the end of the loop &#8211; dislike.<\/p>\n<p>The place is really beautiful, with commanding views across the valley and down, but intermittent rain showers are putting a damper on the party. \u00a0Also for some reason I am beat. With the gloomy weather as an excuse, I pull down the bed at 6-ish and go to sleep instantly. That kills what&#8217;s left of this day. It&#8217;s darkish when I awake, so I just eat, fiddle on the laptop, then go to sleep again. It&#8217;s full moon night, but thick clouds hide that.<\/p>\n<p>I never do get down to the little river that defines this valley. Basically just park eat sleep go. Not my best night, but they can&#8217;t all be epic I guess&#8230;.<\/p>\n<p><h3><a href='..\/index.php?page=day&type=date&key=2016-08-19' id='2016-08-19' title='WHUFU day page'>Friday<\/a><\/h3><div class=\"wp-caption alignleft picpor whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6722' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_1197.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cayton Campground<\/div><\/div><div class=\"wp-caption alignright picpor whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6687' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_2818.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">moose track!<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s cooooold this morning. I\u00a0staying burrowed in my van with the truck noise across the big valley. When I emerge, surprise! \u00a0This turns out to be a super nice place with the sun shining and a good night&#8217;s sleep. The Park Host wife (Park Hostess doesn&#8217;t quite capture it) is laboring at the next campsite below me. Eventually she puttered past on her OHV. Turns out she was digging trenches to try to get the standing water to drain from that site for the nice handicapped couple who had reserved it for the weekend. She asked &#8220;did I see the\u00a0moose?&#8221; The moose?? She showed me fresh moose tracks in the mud. Cool! \u00a0She was very nice, made me feel good about the world somehow. Her hard-working hubby, moving dirt on the road crew while she moves dirt at the campground, is a lucky man.<div class=\"wp-caption alignleft piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6688' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_2819.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">nice free camping at Lizard Head Pass<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>Time to go. Continue up the hill to\u00a0<strong>Lizard Pass<\/strong> &#8211; excellent boondocking area\u00a0at the top &#8211; could&#8217;ve saved myself $9.50 for how\u00a0did not avail myself ofd the campground features at all. Next time&#8230;<div class=\"wp-caption alignright piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6689' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_2824.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">Telluride looking north<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>On to\u00a0<strong>Telluride<\/strong>. Just precious. I have some kind of deep resentment of ski towns. Telluride actually has some\u00a0nice, cheerful people &#8211; why not, your life is perfect! &#8211; so I think it&#8217;s my issue not theirs. Anyway I lucked into the PERFECT spot for me today. <strong>Baked in Telluride<\/strong> (get it?). Wifi, pick your pastry off the huge rack, bottomless coffee, nice sandwiches, and I lucked into a primo corner with an electrical outlet, crucial because my laptop charger is still being fussy, and strong, wall-socket current seems to pep it up. Another report from\u00a0in the bakery &#8230; there are some assholes in Telluride also.<\/p>\n<p>After Telluride, there were leftovers of serious looking flooding along the San Miguel River\u00a0heading north. Looked pretty recent, like a few days.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Ridgway<\/strong> &#8211; <strong>Orvis Hot Springs<\/strong> finally priced me out of the running. Heading north on US 550, Ridgway State Park always looks tempting, but it&#8217;s just so darned\u00a0expensive. I&#8217;m cheap. I drive past again.<\/p>\n<p>Through Montrose to Delta, DQ with no wifi. Few more miles to &#8230;<\/p>\n<p><div class='whusp-dropdown' id='whusp-3'> &nbsp; <b>Delta County Fairgrounds Campground<\/b><span class='downicon'><span class='dashicons dashicons-arrow-down-alt2'><\/span><\/span><\/div><div class='whusp-dropdown-content' id='whusp-3-drop'>\n<p>WHUFU page for: <b><a href='..\/index.php?page=spot&type=id&key=346'  >Delta County Fairgrounds Campground<\/a><\/b><\/p><p>\n<p>Nice little find tucked away in an area with few other campgrounds. There&#039;s parking and hookups (for $3 more), and a sign on the bathroom door telling you rates and to slip the money under the door. It&#039;s all pretty DIY here.<\/p>\n<\/p><p><\/p><b>tonight<\/b>:<p>\n<p>Nice little find tucked away in an area with few other campgrounds. There&#039;s parking and hookups (for $3 more), and a sign on the bathroom door telling you rates and to slip the money under the door. It&#039;s all pretty DIY here.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div><div class=\"wp-caption alignleft piclan whupic\"><a href='..\/index.php?page=pic&type=id&key=6692' title='go to Picture page'><img src='https:\/\/www.whufu.com\/whuFiles\/jpg\/1607Louisville\/IMG_2827.jpg' \/><\/a><div class=\"wp-caption-text\">Delta County Fairgrounds from my spot<\/div><\/div><\/p>\n<p>Sitting in the peaceful fairgrounds park (no dogs allowed!) enjoying the quiet. Kind of boggled by the extremes of Colorado weather. Got down to 31\u00b0 last night at Cayton near Lizard Pass, was in the 50&#8217;s when I left at noon, now in the Delta valley it&#8217;s in the 80&#8217;s, going to 91\u00b0 tomorrow. Breaking out my Oklahoma hot weather gear again.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Both cars are gone when I get going at 9 am. The place seems more pleasant this morning. I think Pagosa Springs frazzles me. First big town is Bayfield. I check Yelp and decide to eat here rather than pressing &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/?p=683\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[29],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-683","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-july-2016-nostalgia-tour"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/683","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=683"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/683\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=683"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=683"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.whufu.com\/wpwhu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=683"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}